Hydra Swimbait Stick Build - Colorado Fishing Forum

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Old 08-28-2013, 10:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Hydra Swimbait Stick Build

Figured since it's taking me long enough to build this rod and I've got other forum members involved in it, I'd post the build and details here.

The blank is a Hydra SWB955:
Length: 7'11"
Line: 15-40
Lure: 5/8oz -6oz
Action: Moderate

I knew from the start I wanted to use Fuji double foot K series tangle free guides. Double footers for the heavy rod, and the K series tangle free guides so that if a wind knot or loop ever got around the guide, it would slide off without mangling the guide up or the rod. Lately I've gone with all chrome guides. If you scratch a black guide a tad, it shows through silver, if you do the same with silver, it doesn't show unless you're looking for it.

http://www.mudhole.com/KWAG-Double-Foot-Spinning-Guides



The guide setup will be spiral wrapped to the left, starting with a size 8, transitioning to a size 6 and will be 6's all the way to the size 6 braced tip top.

http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/...t-Casting-Tops


The grip was made with cork I had hanging around. I sliced down some thin rings off rubberized cork rings to get lighter weight trim rings to both look good and help protect the ends of the grips. I used some of the new burl cork from mudhole. Previous versions did not have the larger chunks of cork mixed in, I thought it looked fairly neat. here it is glued up in the clamp, this is both the butt cap and grip, I glue both at the same time and don't glue the joint between them.




I had a repair to work on for Ken, so I headed up to Denver to hang out and work over a new butt cap for one of his rods and I got to turning down my grips while I had a shop with a nice bench vice to hold my lathe.



I turned the butt down, then the grip. Once I had the grip done the butt needed a tad more work, so it went back on for finishing touches.



So fast forward a week from then and I was out fishing with Oyey and Riv when I broke my Hydra MB843 on it's first outting. I posted a little about that rod here: https://www.coloradofisherman.com/for...690-hydra.html And in the comments crankn101 said something about painting baits and I hit him up to see if he would paint up the reel seat for this rod. I knew I had a Revo Toro NaCl on the way for it so the color scheme was black and blue.



So I trimmed up the seat, did a little sanding work to it to knock down some of the seams that come from the factory and I sent it off. He posted a pic of it painted, but not cleared.



Here's what I got in the mail a few days ago.



And with the reel on it.



At this point, I was going to set the rod up and work it over exactly the way the parts were. As I was having a conversation with Oyey about grips and grip shapes, he made a point about liking the shape of the pre-made mudhole grips he used in the rod building class I did for him and a few others this past spring.



I like the way it tapers from the top down and I find it rather comfortable, I use mudhole's EVA version of this grip on a lot of my builds but I modify it to my liking.

The butt cap is not glued on the rod yet, I tend to do that last, this way I can always slide the rod onto my redneck lathe and re-turn or tweak any parts the way I like them. So tomorrow I intend on turning the grip down some, it won't look like the mudhole grip, but it will be a quicker taper that I find more comfortable. Will post results and more pics of that work later.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Dirty!

Keep 'em coming.

Just curious, do you not like to trim off the last thread that sticks out of the front hood?
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimbait View Post
Dirty!

Keep 'em coming.

Just curious, do you not like to trim off the last thread that sticks out of the front hood?
I like to knock it down for sure, flush is nice, but it's not the goal. I set up the swimbait rod that rests at the bottom of pueblo reservoir(or it might be on the shoreline with as low as that lake is). I set that seat up for a 200 size batcaster, the actual foot size I used was from my citica, which has been a great measurement to use for any other rod. When I got the Daiwa Lexa in, the foot was about 1/4 longer than the citica's and that caused the hood to not line up but rather hang over. I am not a fan of using a cut seat on a heavy rod, I have seen where my past work has moved from where I put it on the rod so I'm super careful of how I measure.

For me, when I palm the reel, my index finger will still go past where I cut that seat. And for what it's worth, the Revo's reel foot matches the length on my citica, so you can see where the little bit of seat in front of the locking nut. When I sent it out for paint, I didn't ask if he was going to paint the threads on the seat like Maitagi does or not. There is about 2 full turns of threads cut off that seat, I will take pics of that seat and a factory seat tomorrow to post ofr comparison.

Last edited by koldkut; 08-28-2013 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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So I fibbed, it was only one turn of the threads I cut off it, it was two I cut off the seat on the rod shown there.

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Old 08-29-2013, 09:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Smart thinking using the tangle free guides, braid sucks about wrapping up on the guides!
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Sweet work as usual. Glad I learned some of this stuff. I have fixed a bunch of my rods recently because of this knowledge. Thanks drew.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Nice work, Drew. That paint job is sick too, Crankn.

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Old 08-29-2013, 06:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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That is a kick-ass paint job to match your reel for sure!!!!
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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DJ
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Lol8
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