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Boat Considerations - Pueblo

6K views 48 replies 12 participants last post by  Bionic Man 
#1 ·
I am seeking suggestions/recommendations as I am strongly considering a boat purchase.

Quickly: I live in Pueblo and it's primary use would be at the reservoir. I am NOT a boat aficionado.

I have been all over craigslist (Denver, COS, here) but the thing is I'm not real sure what I should be looking for knowing it's use would be here.

As a shore angler, I recognize two things about the reservoir:
1) Fishing from the shore has it's limitations and
2) It often gets anywhere from windy to exceptionally windy

These are the two primary drivers behind what I seek and why I seek it. The right kind of boat though..? I am unsure. So I ask for suggestions.

Should I be looking for a Deep V hull for when things get choppy? What's the minimum recommended HP (based on personal experiences) for Pueblo?

I have to confess that I hastily purchased a boat off craigslist last July. It's an old 14' fiberglass boat with a fairly deep V at the bow and a 9.9HP Johnson tiller outboard. We went out on Brush Hollow at my request prior to purchase (you wouldn't buy a used car without test driving first, right?). Engine started up just fine and we puttered around (non-wake lake) for a good 25 minutes. All seemed fine.

Well, first time I had it on the water at the reservoir the engine started but the pull string wouldn't retract. Turns out the spring/coil that carries the tension had broke. This has since been replaced and fixed (to some extent, the tension isn't quite right but it will start) but now there's an issue where the only way it will start is to bypass something by unplugging a cord. So, it will start, but I'd have to use the choke to shut it off and I just feel pretty uncomfortable and unsafe in that situation with this "mystery" motor and my lack of knowledge in general regarding motors.

I ended up buying a Minn Kota 45lb thrust Endura Max trolling motor and that pushed me around the NSM pretty well (great motor). The third time I had the boat out I noticed some water at the back of the boat and it didn't get any better. I think the transom may need some work but I'm not sure.

My first boat buying experience clearly did not go well. I do NOT want to make the same mistake. That's 1K basically wasted. I thought I was doing my due diligence by taking it on the water prior to buying but it would seem some modifications were made to the boat and motor that day for my benefit.

I did at least learn one important thing the few times I was out: I very much disliked trying to control the boat while casting. Reaching back for the tiller handle half way through nearly every retrieve got very frustrating very quickly. I felt like I couldn't even really fish. Really took a lot of the joy out of it. And that was just in the NSM cove ... I can't imagine the movement out on the main lake. I would gaze upon passing boats with bow-mounted trolling motors with great envy. So I've determined I do need some kind of setup that allows me to safely and effectively navigate deeper waters when I want to.

Having said ALL that (apologies for the book here) I would reach out and ask for input/suggestions, any feedback really. My budget is NOT large but I have come to truly love fishing and would like to find a balance between those two things.
 
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#3 ·
If your budget allows, WS's boat mentioned above could be a great fit for you.

Someone as new as you seem to be at this really could use more guidance before purchase (glad you are asking now). There is just soooo much to consider.

Whatever you buy, I would keep in mind that you will likely have to do some upgrades/maintenance. And that can get expensive if you can't do it yourself.

I am sure this post will quickly be followed by those that throw out phrases like "best two days of a boaters life", or "break out another thousand", or something else that is silly. To me, that really defines the difference between boat owner and boater. I love my boats, and while what I have isn't expensive, you don't have to go that route. And once you get to know your way around, upkeep isn't too bad. Outside of upgrades, I have spent very little on maintenance or unexpected repairs of boats after I have gotten going.

Good luck.


By the way. The correct acronym for BOAT from a boater is:

Best
Of
All
Times
 
#9 ·
Someone as new as you seem to be at this really could use more guidance before purchase (glad you are asking now). There is just soooo much to consider.
Yes exactly .. I appreciate being receptive to my situation. I'm not going to repeat the first mistake. Having said that (but still not knowing where to start on the path to a successful and happy boat purchase) it really seemed the best thing to do would be to reach out to the community for feedback/input.

Whatever you buy, I would keep in mind that you will likely have to do some upgrades/maintenance. And that can get expensive if you can't do it yourself.
I'd say it's normal to be dealing with issues as part of your boating experience. Gas motors invariably get gunked up and need to be cleaned with seafoam. So you have to learn to deal with that. Cables need lubed, tires loose air, water pump impellers degrade, bearings need to be repacked from time to time, etc. Be ready for it and grin along with the rest of us when we shrug our shoulders and say stupid stuff like, "Break Out Another Thousand." If you don't want to pay a shop to fix stuff for you ask advice here and watch you tube ...

...If you know what you are looking for you will find it. You can sometimes find some great deals (especially in the fall from a motivated seller) but I'd say plan to spend $6500 or more for the boat and have more $ for additional expenses like new impeller, electronics, downrigger, kicker motor, etc.
... you can spend much less but be prepared to learn and spend time working on your boat instead of fishing. You have to realistic in your expectations.
The above quotes (especially the bolded) is exactly where I'm at. Realistic expectations is a great descriptor. I think I should have been very specific when I said my budget is not large (more below).

I do feel like I can learn & perform the routine maintenance that comes with an outboard motor (and boat & trailer themselves).

My primary concern is the initial purchase. How can I properly asses both the condition and value of something that seems like a good fit? How can one know that the motor is not a dud in disguise, or will be a dud after a few times out?

In my situation, it seemed the "show me" method would be the best route (take it out on the water). Looks like this is hardly foolproof. Still can't imagine not doing so prior to purchase though.

In other words...check out Walleye Seeker's boat! ::) :thumb:
Haha, yes I certainly did get that impression :wink:

I did in fact reach out to WS per his response and at the mention of others in this thread - AND the fact it does seem to have a lot of features that could really heighten an angler's fishing experience. It does look like his nice boat is going to be above my particular budget unfortunately.

The first thing you need to do is set your budget... Tell me your budget, and I will give you a ton of information. And yes, Byron's boat is a great way to start. that trolling motor set up will be used more than anything you can possibly imagine.
2-2.5K.

We aren't looking for more debt, I'm already on fairly thin ice after last year's debacle, and I feel there has to be something out there that will suit my needs as stated.
 
#4 ·
Common sense goes a long way when fishing Pueblo. Watch the weather and if it starts to get windy make sure you are on the side of the lake where you launched-you don't want to cross open water. Been fishing Pueblo for 30+ yrs and never even had what I would call a close call, well maybe once. :)

Of course if you get a bigger boat you will have less to worry about. I always look at the forecast before getting on the lake and avoid bad weather days. And get a bow mount trolling motor-way easier to control the boat and cast.

Good luck.
 
#5 ·
So you bought your first boat, learned a lot and now you are ready to move on. That's good, and I think, necessary. You can get a lot of advice but you need to learn what's right for you.

I'd say it's normal to be dealing with issues as part of your boating experience. Gas motors invariably get gunked up and need to be cleaned with seafoam. So you have to learn to deal with that. Cables need lubed, tires loose air, water pump impellers degrade, bearings need to be repacked from time to time, etc. Be ready for it and grin along with the rest of us when we shrug our shoulders and say stupid stuff like, "Break Out Another Thousand." If you don't want to pay a shop to fix stuff for you ask advice here and watch you tube.

I would recommend a boat that won't sink. Seriously. Old boats have cool styling and are cheap on Craigslist but newer boats are injected with foam and if the worst happens will still float enough for you to hang on above water. ;)

A Deep V is best to help with the wind and waves and some of the best advice I got from this forum was from the guy who said a full windshield is a must. A bigger boat is not that tough to deal with once you get used to it and gives you a margin of safety on the water. I think 17-21 feet is right. Plenty of great fishermen on here use smaller boats but it's a tougher time when the weather and big waves come up. With an i-pilot trolling motor on front with a gas kicker on back I can fish by myself easily.

Good luck with your search. If you know what you are looking for you will find it. You can sometimes find some great deals (especially in the fall from a motivated seller) but I'd say plan to spend $6500 or more for the boat and have more $ for additional expenses like new impeller, electronics, downrigger, kicker motor, etc.
 
#6 ·
BTW you can spend much less but be prepared to learn and spend time working on your boat instead of fishing. You have to realistic in your expectations. My first boat was $800. I learned how to rebuild and adjust carb, change oil in lower unit, change impeller, wire in electronics and lighting, replace carpeting seat upholstery and floor, etc. With my second boat ($400 Fish/Ski) I learned how to fix pinhole leaks in the fiberglass hull, change out the gears in the lower unit, change out bunk boards on the trailer, etc. 8)
 
#8 ·
The first thing you need to do is set your budget... Tell me your budget, and I will give you a ton of information. And yes, Byron's boat is a great way to start. that trolling motor set up will be used more than anything you can possibly imagine.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Don't buy a total project. Look for a sound hull, transom, deck and motor. Check the transom with a hammer. wrap a rag around it and tap on the transom. Listen to the sound in a solid area towards the top of the transom and check around where the motor is mounted, drain plug and all areas where holes have been drilled for accessories. It shouldn't sound hollow and when applying pressure to the outboard the transom shouldn't flex. Check inside where the motor bolts to the transom. Make sure that the bolts aren't pulling through. If it's an aluminum boat with rivets, check the transom and also make sure the rivets don't leak. Walk the deck, look for soft spots.

Outboard only...don't buy an inboard. If there is no recent paper work on service. Replace the impeller immediately, replace and inspect the lower unit oil, and inspect and repack the wheel bearings. Unless you have newer lights always unplug before backing into the lake. Make sure you're not under horse powered for the size of the boat. You want it to get up on plane easy with a load and I'm guessing you'll want twenty five to thirty miles an hour minimum top end.

You can get a decent boat in your price range. It won't have all of the goodies...electronics, the bow mount motor you'll want...etc. But you can pick up those items at reasonable prices as people upgrade over time.

Here's a few boats you could look at.


https://cosprings.craigslist.org/boa/d/17-foot-1990-spectrum-dmv-boat/6478303432.html

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/bar/d/1973-thunderbird/6514060287.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/foot-invader-outboard-fishing/6529388039.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/fishing-boat-lundfoot/6525070693.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/sgd/d/2006-bennington-boat-24ft/6470979635.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/72wes-craft/6529935102.html
 
#13 ·
I met Walleyeseeker in my canoe.
No motor woes, no registrations, no inspections and you get free exercise until your shoulder burns out.
Run into logs without worry.
I would love a full picture of this rig? Interested in the rod holder set-up and the taught line on the right (has to serve a purpose - I am intrigued).

Always looking for a way to improve my canoe use.
 
#22 ·
I look closely for things like this. Also if I can see the year of the boat registration I feel like that can be telling. To me, the more recent the year the better. My logic there is that if it's been registered in '17 then it's less likely to be a dud (or have some substantial issue). But that didn't matter with the boat I bought last year and of course isn't conclusive. It's just something I consider.

I tend to shy away if I can see the most recent registration is several years old.

Don't buy a total project. Look for a sound hull, transom, deck and motor. Check the transom with a hammer. wrap a rag around it and tap on the transom. Listen to the sound in a solid area towards the top of the transom and check around where the motor is mounted, drain plug and all areas where holes have been drilled for accessories. It shouldn't sound hollow and when applying pressure to the outboard the transom shouldn't flex. Check inside where the motor bolts to the transom. Make sure that the bolts aren't pulling through. If it's an aluminum boat with rivets, check the transom and also make sure the rivets don't leak. Walk the deck, look for soft spots.

Outboard only...don't buy an inboard. If there is no recent paper work on service. Replace the impeller immediately, replace and inspect the lower unit oil, and inspect and repack the wheel bearings. Unless you have newer lights always unplug before backing into the lake. Make sure you're not under horse powered for the size of the boat. You want it to get up on plane easy with a load and I'm guessing you'll want twenty five to thirty miles an hour minimum top end.

You can get a decent boat in your price range. It won't have all of the goodies...electronics, the bow mount motor you'll want...etc. But you can pick up those items at reasonable prices as people upgrade over time.

Here's a few boats you could look at.


https://cosprings.craigslist.org/boa/d/17-foot-1990-spectrum-dmv-boat/6478303432.html

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/bar/d/1973-thunderbird/6514060287.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/foot-invader-outboard-fishing/6529388039.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/fishing-boat-lundfoot/6525070693.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/sgd/d/2006-bennington-boat-24ft/6470979635.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/72wes-craft/6529935102.html
This is my thinking too. I figure if I can start with a sound boat & motor then I can acquire accessories over time, all while learning boat maintenance.

Thank you for posting those links, I have so many questions that I consider when looking at the barrage of listings on CL as a novice. I've identified some of these questions below as they relate to these listings.


https://cosprings.craigslist.org/boa/d/17-foot-1990-spectrum-dmv-boat/6478303432.html

On the first link .. this looks like the kind of boat that (if sound) could be the right kind of fit (casting deck/bow mount trolling motor, good HP). My immediate questions looking at this listing though are:
1) If this is a good boat/good deal, why has it been listed for over 2 months?
2) How does one (as accurately as possible) value a used boat?

We can use NADA or KBB to at least get some kind of a starting point on a vehicle, but it seems (older) boats interchange equipment and motors with relative frequency. How does one get that "base" starting point value of a used boat?


https://cosprings.craigslist.org/bar/d/1973-thunderbird/6514060287.html

On the second link, it says it's a 1973. I see a lot of boats on CL from around this time. Is there a point where something is possibly just "too old" and, despite the tempting price, I should probably be looking at something else? I realize there are a lot of variables in there like how well it's been taken care of etc, but don't replacement parts become harder to come by the older something is?

Also on this one (just the one picture unfortunately) I can't tell but this doesn't actually look like a "fishing boat". Could a bow-mounted trolling motor be put on a boat like this? I like to cast a lot and, as mentioned, I can't see myself not having a situation where I can't control the boat from the front while casting to my heart's desire.

This brings up a sub question related to bow-mounted trolling motors: If I see a listing and the boat has a bow-mounted trolling motor, can I assume that that trolling motor can be upgraded at anytime to pretty much any trolling motor? In other words, are all bow-mounted trolling motor areas of boats created equally (or pretty equally)?


https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/foot-invader-outboard-fishing/6529388039.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/fishing-boat-lundfoot/6525070693.html

The third and fourth listings have been deleted by author, apparently sold since yesterday.


https://denver.craigslist.org/sgd/d/2006-bennington-boat-24ft/6470979635.html

The fifth listing is the previously noted scam pontoon boat which, when I saw, immediately knew something was fishy as that's too new of a boat to be that price.

Additionally, I mean, would I even be considering a pontoon boat for fishing purposes? I've always thought they looked like nice leisure boats to just hang out on the water or whatever but I can't imagine doing any semi-serious fishing from one.


https://denver.craigslist.org/boa/d/72wes-craft/6529935102.html

The sixth listing is kind of a perfect example of a summation of these questions. It lists as a 1972 (age, replacement parts question)... tags show it was last registered in 2015... can a bow-mount TM be added to this kind of boat, etc.
 
#21 ·
The budget you are suggesting will make things a bit of a challenge. That said, there are boats out there that are great for CO in that price range. To me, getting a reliable motor is extremely important. Look for a clean motor that starts rather easy. Usually when they start easy, they run decent. I don't think you will get much over an 60 hp for the budget you talked about, but in my opinion, that's not a big deal.

Good luck!
 
#24 ·
Don't get a "Death Boat". IMO anything under 15-16 ft. is a death boat. I ran a 14 footer with a 20 hp motor for 7 years or so. Had the poop scared outta me at least twice a year. Truly thought I/We were gonna die. Fishing is a lot more fun when you're not worried about dying out there-
 
#25 · (Edited)
Yes you could mount a bow mount on either of those boats. That last boat is very similar to one I had for years. Worked fine. Tri hulls are very stable side to side or when turning sharply. They are a little rougher ride in big waves, but very safe. With a piece of plywood, you can easily add a removable casting deck.

Yep, two have sold. One was the Lund and the other was a very clean boat...

The one from Penrose is interesting with the rebuilt motor. As far as boat motors go, parts are available for even very old motors in most cases. I've found new parts for 1950's motors.

As far as a pontoon goes. Yes, they can be rigged to be very good fishing boats.

My buddy bought a 1978 boat with a 100 hp merc on it two years ago. Runs great ...will do 40 mph and he added a minn kota with spot lock that he bought from zman. I've fished out of it a few times. He paid 2200.00 and I think the trolling motor from z was another 750.00.

If the motor and transom are sound on the first boat, I don't know why it hasn't sold. You can call him and ask. Remember, you can always make an offer on any boat. See one for $3500...offer $2500. They might take it or adjust their price. No skin off your back to walk away. There will always be another boat for sale.

As far as price NADA etc....In your price range, a good running boat with a sound hull on a good trailer is going to be worth that 2000.00 or so that you're looking to spend.. NADA would be more appropriate for a more expensive boat or one that requires financing.

I was curious on the first boat. So, I called the number. I'm guessing it's been sold as the number has been disconnected. Or he posted the wrong number and you'll need to respond by email.
 
#26 ·
Nada and kbb pricing really mean nothing in Colorado.

You just have to watch Boats that might be in the ballpark of what you want and see what their pricing is. You will get a feel for pricing pretty quickly.

A good boat that is priced right will sell VERY quickly especially this time of year. If you are serious you need to have cash ready and be able to move fast.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#28 ·
You asked how you can check out a motor so you don't get burned again. Compression test is a start, and you get a good idea of the condition of the motor (leaking seals, etc.) while you are there. If you go for a test drive at the lake try to meet up with the seller before boat goes in the water so you get an idea of how hard it is to start up when cold. Seller might agree to have boat checked out by dealer/mechanic for a prepurchase inspection at your cost.

I agree that this time of year you'll need to be ready to hop on the right deal when you see it. :)
 
#31 · (Edited)
Almost anyone that owns a boat will have a set of engine muffs or hose adapter in order to start the motor in the driveway. If they don't, you can pick them up for fifteen bucks. I wouldn't count on a ride in your price range. Check the tilt and trim, start the motor, listen to the owner and make your best guess. Before leaving pueblo...ask them to hold it for 3 hours...that you're driving up.

Personally, I believe horsepower is more important than you suggest. An under powered boat fully loaded that under performs will be a disappointment. Less horsepower doesn't mean better motor. Pueblo is a good sized reservoir. Weather reports tell you if you should fish that day. Weather itself is not so predictable. It can be calm one minute and ready to sink you fifteen minutes later. The mile and Spinney can be just as bad. That doesn't include time lost fishing while motoring from spot to spot. That can be a significant amount of time.

Sounds like you're gun shy having been burnt once. But, unless you're buying a boat with a guarantee...there are no guarantees. Make your best decision and don't look back.

Personally, if I wanted a boat, I'd already be on my way to check out that boat in Elizabeth. Seeing the guys garage and the condition of the boat... First impression..He takes care of his stuff.
 
#34 ·
I believe you are over thinking this.

As Hobie stated, go buy a set of ear muffs. Run the boat on the hose long enough for it to get up to operating temp. If it starts easy and runs on muffs, chances are very good (but not 100%) that it will be fine on the water. If it isn't, generally speaking, there isn't a lot to an outboard engine, and it can be made to run properly. Outboards will literally go thousands of hours before a rebuild. A worn out engine in Colorado is unusual.

For your price range, the paid inspection doesn't really make sense either.

You might get a sea trail in your price range, and you might not. I know if I were selling a boat in your price range this time of year, you would get to hear it run on the muffs. If someone does meet or take you to the lake, don't expect a 30 minute tour.

And Hobie is also right about HP. It isn't just about "speed". An under powered boat might get up on plane with just one person. But it might be unable to do the same with two or three people and a full live well. If you are fishing with two people, 50 - 60 HP might be enough. If you are going to have 3 or more most of the time, you need more HP.

Something else I would recommend before driving 100 miles to look at something, is make sure you get a LOT of photos. Try to get as many angles of the hull as you can. Get photos of the interior. Even ask the owner if he will do a FaceTime walk around with you. That could save you some heart ache and time.

Every time I open the link to the Elizabeth boat, I like it more and more. You can tell a lot about a boat by who owns it and where they keep it. Honestly, I am somewhat surprised it is still available. If it is still on the market later this week, I might go and pick it up myself. If you held onto it until May, you could pretty easily make $1000 on it, if it is indeed as advertised.
 
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