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Discussion Starter #161
My set-up came apart a few times as well but it was because I couldn't get the chuck tight enough. My auger will go through but the design of the ice eater prevents that.
 

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It's odd to me that your set ups are coming apart. Seems like there is very little "pull" from the auger bit. Because of the bearing system, as long as everything is tight, it almost seems impossible for the drill to come loose. Maybe I'm missing something.
 

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I think the newer clam plates don't require you to remove the chuck from the drill. With the older clam you won't loose the auger bit but it's a pain in the ass swapping it back out to use your drill.
 

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I think the newer clam plates don't require you to remove the chuck from the drill. With the older clam you won't loose the auger bit but it's a pain in the ass swapping it back out to use your drill.
I have the new type where you don't remove the chuck, but the weight of the auger bit is not on the drill, it's on the clam plate. The only way my bit can fall off is if the locking wingnut came out.
 

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I have the new type where you don't remove the chuck, but the weight of the auger bit is not on the drill, it's on the clam plate. The only way my bit can fall off is if the locking wingnut came out.
x2
 

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I keep waiting for an explanation.. not trying to be contrary, I'm just wondering how it's possible?
 

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So I guess people who are having their setups come apart are not using a clam plate with the locking wingnut?

Da_Teacher which adapter are you using?

I think I'm going with a clam plate if I can ever find one available...out of stock everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #169
I am not using the clam plate and my issue is 100% my fault. I was not getting the drill chuck tight enough on my adapter, that has been fixed and shouldn't be an issue anymore
 

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So I guess people who are having their setups come apart are not using a clam plate with the locking wingnut?

Da_Teacher which adapter are you using?

I think I'm going with a clam plate if I can ever find one available...out of stock everywhere.

No adapter -- straight to the orange Nils. I def think it was user error -- not tightening it enough.
 

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I also like working on different works, and of course, having a drill is absolutely crucial. However, when I just started my path as a master. I had no clue what tools do I need, and generally I did not know that there are various types of drills that suit different requirements. Things got clear when I found a site with a corporation that included mpact driver vs hammer drill. I read all the information presented on that site and understood that I need an mpact drill, and I knew exactly what model and where to take it from.
 

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I've heard a lot of guys saying thhe brushless drills are the way to go. What is the difference between a brushless vs other?
Brush vs Brushless is not a big deal, torque is what matter. Typically the nicer cordless drills are brushless. Larger corded drills tend to have carbon brushes, even the nice ones. On carbon brush drills there is a little port with flathead next to the motor, if you open that port there will be a chunk of carbon with a spring. The carbon actually wear down after a while and will need to be replaced. The carbon absorbs the excess energy from the motor when you let go of the trigger. The brushless drills just have a technology that absorbs that excess energy without the need for the carbon brush. I have a miter saw that I've used to build a shed,3 chicken coops, fences and a lot of furniture. I have never replaced the brush, not to mention the brushes go for 75cents or something stupid cheap. All that being said i don't think any of the reputable brands sell battery operated tools with brushes so it might be a good idea to focus on brushless drills.
 

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You will burn out a brushed drill. As stated torq is key. If you want to buy a drill every year buy one brushed. If you want to buy one that will last, buy a brushless hammer/drill. This is where you will get the torq and not burn it up. Milwaukee/Makita/ et al. will list torq specs. Dewalt uses something else. I use a Dewalt hammer/drill and shave through ice on BM without a hiccup. Do not use any drill on high speed or on hammer. I get roughly 20-25 holes in 12-15" of ice on (1) 5amph battery.

Now you could buy a cordless "hole hog" and never worry about burning anything up. Might tweek the auger if it gets hung up. Lol
 

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You will burn out a brushed drill. As stated torq is key. If you want to buy a drill every year buy one brushed. If you want to buy one that will last, buy a brushless hammer/drill. This is where you will get the torq and not burn it up. Milwaukee/Makita/ et al. will list torq specs. Dewalt uses something else. I use a Dewalt hammer/drill and shave through ice on BM without a hiccup. Do not use any drill on high speed or on hammer. I get roughly 20-25 holes in 12-15" of ice on (1) 5amph battery.

Now you could buy a cordless "hole hog" and never worry about burning anything up. Might tweek the auger if it gets hung up. Lol
Regardless you cant get a brushed battery drill from Miluwakee, Dewalt, or Makita because that would be wrong and those companies know the difference between right and wrong.
 

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Regardless you cant get a brushed battery drill from Miluwakee, Dewalt, or Makita because that would be wrong and those companies know the difference between right and wrong.
Lol. I've never heard of a brushed cordless as being "wrong". I guess today I would refer to them as "vintage".

My BIL uses a brushless Ryobi. It works but you have to clear the shavings or it will shut down. Just like wood chips they create friction. So you don't have to spend a chunk of change on a drill. We'll see if it lasts the season though.
 

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Despite torque being of great importance I have tried 2 different battery drills. One 400 ft-lbs and another 1200 ft-lbs both work very well. I did notice my 400 ft-lb got hot but seemed to be okay. Can't comment on battery because neither drained the batteries I was using. Did not make enough holes to find out. This was at 11 mile and ice was about 20" thick. I prefer the 1200 but not by much. I already have the drills so not concerned about price. If you wanted to cheap out you could probably get away with anything between 400 and 1200.
 
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