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Discussion Starter #1
... i have a question about what is used to put the finishing "shine" on a rod.
thinking about shining up some of mine that are showing a bit of boat rash...
thanks in advance.
 

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It is a lot of work, but you can spread some water-thin CA glue over the rash, a couple coats. After it is set, buff it out with wet/dry sandpaper , starting with 400, then 600, more if you want. Wet your paper and add a tiny drop of dish soap as a surfactant. Clean the paper often and rub only in one direction. It will buff out like glass.

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Two questions: one, can you use lacquer to do the same thing on a rod, then use wet/dry, and buff out with a rubbing compound like a vehicle finish? And two: what would you recommend for some rub marks on a baitcasting reel?

D.J.
 

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djfisherman2 said:
Two questions: one, can you use lacquer to do the same thing on a rod, then use wet/dry, and buff out with a rubbing compound like a vehicle finish? And two: what would you recommend for some rub marks on a baitcasting reel?

D.J.
Never tried it with lacquer, but I see no reason why it should not work. The surfactant used for the sandpaper must be non-reactive with the base coat, or gummy bad things will result, and the tooth of the paper must be maintained by rinsing it so the grit does not fill in, but it should work.

The reels I have had do not have a sturdy finish like rods do. My success in cleaning up reel finished has been more limited. A re-paint may be required, but that is a huge PITA. A winter job for sure, right up there with tying a couple thousand midges.

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Discussion Starter #5
what is CA glue?
i was thinking maybe a spar varnish, but not sure if that would be flexible enough to not crack when the rod flexes...
also have a few that go well beyond boat rash and i was thinking about sanding them down and re-finishing completely... suggestions?
 

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My bad... Cyanoacrylate or "superglue" as it is otherwise known.

Sure, you can sand down rods. Just have to be very, very careful to take off an even amount of the surface or you will get a weak spot for sure.

I have a nine and a half foot slow medium light spinning rod I built from a St. Croix 8wt 4pc Imperial fly rod. I stripped it of all the snakes and sanded the brown stain out of the blank. It was a long, tedious process. But I got a St. Croix correct handle, (Fuji, don't remember the model name, it came from a busted 'Croix at Sportsmen's) and TiChr spinning guides.

I now have an awesome four-piece live-bait/SoCal style surf rod that is a sleek slate grey. It will also do Float n fly, slip rigs, float rigs, all sorta stuff. I can cast a 1/4 oz spoon on 4lb test so far you can't see it land.

Just be aware that manufacturers are not down with this sort of thing. If you have any sort of warrantee it will be voided. You may be better off just living with the issue till the stick breaks and getting a new one.

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caranuba wax! if that won't take the scratches out, then you will need to use a good spar varnish, or use product intended for this very thing like permagloss or lumiseal. the key(very key) thing is that you have a water break free surface and you work fast....your working time with permagloss is almost nothing, put it in the freezer before working with it. Lumiseal is the same way, but lumiseal has less odor.

Is the rod a gloss or matte finish?
 

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swimbait said:
djfisherman2 said:
Two questions: one, can you use lacquer to do the same thing on a rod, then use wet/dry, and buff out with a rubbing compound like a vehicle finish? And two: what would you recommend for some rub marks on a baitcasting reel?

D.J.
Never tried it with lacquer, but I see no reason why it should not work. The surfactant used for the sandpaper must be non-reactive with the base coat, or gummy bad things will result, and the tooth of the paper must be maintained by rinsing it so the grit does not fill in, but it should work.

The reels I have had do not have a sturdy finish like rods do. My success in cleaning up reel finished has been more limited. A re-paint may be required, but that is a huge PITA. A winter job for sure, right up there with tying a couple thousand midges.

SS
Thanks. I was just wondering about lacquer/two part polyurethane since I do auto body work. Water would be the best correct...? With something like Murphy's oil soap for the lubricant in the water? I figured that about the reels, I just have Phlueger I really like...but because I was an idiot and didn't keep a reel cover on for a while whilst using it...it has some rub marks/minor scratches on the side plate. I have been thinking about painting my Browning..something custom..but just need to get the time to do it.

D.J.
 
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