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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not new to ice fishing but I want to go after lakers this season and I have never done that. I'm a sight fisherman through the years, my poles all have 4 pound test on them. What kind of line do you guys with experience put on your reels? oh ya, I do have a fish flasher on order :thumb:
 

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Doing a search you can find a bunch of info that still applies...search floro and lakers together...I prefer a bait caster less line twist jigging since I dont like swivels and use 10 or 12 pound floro...I wouldnt hesitate to use Nanofil either since it sheds water...the white makes for good line watching with a 10 to 15 foot floro leader tied together with a couple of double uni's...use at least 7 wraps on each side since nano is so slick...others will chim in with preferences...here is some links...a bunch of different ways to accomplish the same thing...Bernie should start having seminars at Cabelas or Bass Pro to cut the learning curve more...you can email him or call him and if he has local seminar dates he will tell you...contact info at www.fishingwithbernie.com...

http://www.coloradofisherman.com/forum/10-colorado-ice-fishing/85098-ice-holin-rods-reels.html


http://www.coloradofisherman.com/forum/3-colorado-fishing/87570-braid-ice.html


http://www.coloradofisherman.com/forum/10-colorado-ice-fishing/64060-laker-rods.html


http://www.coloradofisherman.com/forum/10-colorado-ice-fishing/52769-laker-rod.html
 

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I didnt have time to devote endless time and gas to laker trips so I had to rely on others to cut my learning curve...I wouldnt know 10% of what I think I know if it was for Bernie, Don In Durango and Hobie...

Some Bernie ice articles...

http://www.fishingwithbernie.com/ice-fishing
 

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Poles are for strippers and flags, not lakers.

Looks like Zman got you all the food for thought you need, but here is some additional input.

Go with a 2500 size reel, find a 36" rod that is sensitive and fast action.

If you want to use Flouro, dont use anything other than Seagar in 10lb

Berkley Solutions(silver and red box) 10lb and 8lb for Mono works great for me, stays strong when cold, has little line memory and doesn't seem to twist up as fast. Ive been using this for our tours at Dillon with the beginners and have been impressed. I had 6 rods spooled with 6, 8 and 10 last season and never had to respool any of them.

Sometimes braid helps if fishing reel deep. A mono or flouro leader on the braid is a must.
 

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When your line starts snapping around the hole you are going to wish you'd gone heavier than 10lb test.
 

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I mostly use two Thorne bros rods. One is 40 inches the other 44. If I'm going to be fishing outside the hut, I'll use the 44..inside the 40. I prefer a baitcaster because you have much more control on the drop, smooth drags and a faster retrieve, but I only own one. So, I also use a spinning rod and reel. Match the rod to the size of the baits you'll be using. Too much bounce in the tip makes it more difficult to control the bait and will also give you line twist...plus too light of a tip makes it difficult to set the hook.

I use 10lb test. I've also used 12..no problem if your reel is large enough. I really don't believe that big lakers are line shy and anything less than 10lb test when fishing for big fish does a disservice to the fish. If you're going to be fishing deep, you're better off using flouro. Both fluoro and mono stretch about the same initially...but mono rebounds back and then continues to stretch over and over again. Fluoro isn't as elastic and once stretched stays stretched. Gives you a little more oomph on the hook set. You can spool up and then pre stretch your Flouro line or wait for that first big fish to do it for you.

In my opinion, more big fish are lost on the hook set and the initial reel up than at any other time...They're going to come up fast right at ya, as fast as you can reel, and you won't even know how big the fish is....until she turns around. If you hook a fish reel as fast as you can until the fish decides to go back down..Don't stop reeling for any reason until then. Always make sure your drag is set appropriately...a little tight for the hook set and you can then adjust for the fight as needed.

When you get the fish in the hole..just give a steady lift..keep tension on the fish and then either using a glove or by grabbing the jig..slide the fish carefully onto the ice. They really don't thrash in the hole..they can't turn around..so, take your time, be careful and don't hurt the fish by grabbing the gills.

Be prepared...Have your camera ready..get the fish back in the water quickly..If you want a weight or measurement use a cradle..If below freezing, gills can freeze quickly. When releasing the fish hold onto the tail until it gives a little kick..and down she'll go..ready to fight another day.

Don't be selfish..release all big fish for the enjoyment of others.

Different people have different styles and techniques..no one technique seems to work at all times and different fish during the same day react differently..Kinda hard to say I've got a pattern. And take everything I say with a grain of salt. I'd say a lot of big laker fishermen would probably prefer to fish at least fifty feet away from me after watching how I fish for big lakers...but then again, that works out for all of us.
 

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All anybody asks is if you do catch a big fish is to release it, these fish grow very slowly so please catch and release every fish over 30"
 

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I put my line through the guides... Hook up a live trout and let the good times roll why I drink a couple 40's.
The fish seem to find the trout so I don't move a lot
 

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Well cripez a 23 inch laker will feed a tomato plant family of 3!
 

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You hang a tube jig the size of a zucchini and jig it up and down for 27 hours or until your arm falls off. If yer lucky you might get bit---
 

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I stand corrected every fish over 22" must be released.

Do you guys think if there were less fish in the 22-26" ramge the 26"+ fish would have more to eat and therefore gain weight and grow faster?
 

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Slow growth rates at Granby aren't about not enough forage fish. It's about nutrients in the water.

redleader, fordo and Ewert can answer this better than most.

Forum search "laker growth rates" and you'll find some good info.
 

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I stand corrected every fish over 22" must be released.

Do you guys think if there were less fish in the 22-26" ramge the 26"+ fish would have more to eat and therefore gain weight and grow faster?
That depends on the reservoir, how much, and what type of forage it has.
If you ask most the biologists, The thought is that if one fish goes away, another takes it place. But i disagree, it takes years to replace a 30" laker. The next 23 to 26 incher does not magically jump to 30.
One thing that is a fact, is lakers are going to eat whats available. Most reserviors have an over population of suckers. If the lakers aren't easily hitting on kokes and raindows, they will eat the suckers, other lakers or anything else that is available.
 

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i like braid to a swivel to floro thats 10 or 12lb. i like the theory described earlier of reeling the fish in fast as you can after hookset. if you jack their jaw good enough on the hookset you can get them in pretty fast if you reel like crazy. anything less than 10 pound i feel like you have to play the fish too long to release them nice and green. i usually get splashed by lakers when i let them go. plus who wants to hold their arm in the water for a long time reviving the fish.
as stated before let the big ones grow pun intended. we've caught the same half blind laker twice a whole year later! plus theres sweet story with pics in my sig of a laker being caught twice.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks everyone, I decided I would try a #12 floro as my first try. I do practice catch and release on most fish I catch but I do enjoy eating them too so I do take some. Ive been reading that general concencous around here is lakers are best eating aroud 18 inches long, is that true?
 
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