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Discussion Starter #1
So I picked up my first hut and I have a few questions that have sprung up after thinking about its use.

First - The product is a Clam 5600 and it has a solid bottom with removable panels. Is there a technique for drilling holes? It seems easy enough to drill them then slide the shelter over, but it could prove to be a challange in the wind, or a hassle if you drill a little off center. Drilling from the inside would be fine of course but I think it is silly to have the bottom if only to fill it with ice shavings (I could bring along some colored syrup and make snow cones though) and water.

Second - High wind conditions are a given and I was curious to know of a few different tie down techniques. Since it is a high profile hut would it be simplest to drive three or so stakes right across the back and tie to them, or are there better options?

Third - Sliding it. I'm sure that it is easy enough to slide however has anyone ever tried mounting a thin metal strip or something similar? I'm looking to keep it as close to the ice as possible while prolonging the life of the 'sled' casing and making it as easy to move as can be. I guess if I were to raise the casing off of the ice a bit it would help with number one.

Anyways any advice is greatly welcomed...
 

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Congrats on the new purchase. As Far as drilling the holes on my Clam 2000 I keep one of the spreader poles set to the distance between the two openings. I just lay the pole on the ice, Drill a hole at each end and slide the shelter over. As Far as keeping the sheleter in place I use some ice anchors. The best tool for puting these in is a cheap cordless drill. I will usually put three on the down wind side, one in back and one on each side. I don't tie the shelter to them but place the anchors right against the edge. Sliding the shelters is easy enough, a little harded in snow but still managable.
 

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On my Viking shelter I used 5 inch lag bolts. I drilled a hole through the bottom of my shelter on the inside. Then I took my lag bolts, put them on the grinder and made a sharp point. I hammer the lags into the ice, then at the end of the day, I use a speed ratchet to unscrew them from the ice. This method worked real well and kept me firmly anchored during some very high winds.
 

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Hey Kajitan,

I have a clam 1060,It's similiar to yours but is the A frame design. I dont recommend drilling holes inside the hut. After a couple of tries you should be able to pace of the distance between holes so you can drill holes and slide the hut over the holes.

As for anchoring the hut I use ice climbing screws with some rope connected to the grommets in the corners. They seem to work quite well but are a little expensive. Last month at 11 mile we fished in consistant 50mph+ winds and the ice screws worked great. If you are going to disassemble your hut in the wind leave the screws in on the windward side and take the hut down. It really helps keep the cover from blowing around.

FC
 

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We use the Clam 5600 and I can help with a question or two.

1.) While standing in the setup shelter, mark where you want your holes. Move the shelter out of the way and drill the holes. Clean the ice and snow away from the holes and move the shelter back. You can temporarily drop the canopy on the shanty if the winds are excessive (takes like 30 seconds).

2.) We haven't anchored ours down yet.

3.) This shanty pulls pretty easily with one person on ice and snow without the the metal runners. Metal runners does seem like a pretty good idea to prolong its life.

I hope this helps.
 

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I've got the clam 5600 and I took two of my old skis and cut them to be just a bit larger than the house and screwed them in. I mark my holes before I raised the top up past the first pole and I always use ice achors in the wind. I've been inside it once on ice with no snow and a big gust of wind took me for quite a ride. Reservour was still open water in the middle and I gaurantee I could have won an Olympic Speed Zipperring medal trying to get out of that thing! I too use climbing anchors that are self taping and the ice pops through the center. Really slick and you don't need to care a heavy hammer or drill. Go to a climbing store and ask if they have any anchors that are a year of two old. I got 5 for about 15 bucks!
 

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gander mtn sells those hand screws for like $3 for two.    I bought some when I picked up my clam 2000 a couple weeks back. 

sorry, my original post said sportsmans. i picked mine up at gander mountain.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Excellent!

Thanks for the thoughts everyone. I must say that it is absolutely brilliant to use the spreader bars for hole placement. So simple but effective. I'm the perfectionest type so I would bust out the chalk line and square if that wasn't thrown out.

Oh...and speed zippering....classic...

Thanks again...
 

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i mark my holes from inside the shelter just scratch a line around the opening slide the shelter to the side drill my holes and slide it back perfect every time
 

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we used to fish with a clam 6800(the big sucker)and we used to open it and lay it on the ice after we shoveled an opening(in deeper snow)thwen i would start the auger and just mark the 4 holes we were using the the person with me would slide the shelter out of the way and i would drill the holes after cleaning holes we would slide it back over and shovel the snow in around the edges. i also had some holes drilled through the floor inside that i would run some big lag screws through when the wind picked up. in bad wind it still sucked as then the shelter wouldn't blow away but it would bend some of the spreader poles pretty good. it was just a pain in the butt to move much though as it was quite a bit of set up involved especially if you were setting up in the wind. finally after 3 years got rid of it and bought a fish trap voyager. much more efficient shelter if you like to move and find the fish. much faster to set up also. much more money though. but works well.
 

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Hello all. Just found out about the site. Love it already.

Our solution for hut securing and holes is to take a small 2x4 (longer than the width of your hole) with a hole in the center. Tie some disposable rope through it, and attach it to the hut. The first hole we punch is to put the 2x4 through. Just jam it down in there, and the bouyency will push it up onto the bottom of the ice. Pull the hut tight on the rope (down wind of course) and then use a screwdriver, pliers or whatever to scratch the pattern of the holes. Swing the hut out of the way, (it will pivot thanks to the rope) and punch your holes. I've used this technique on Haddy Res. in Wyoming in solid 50mph winds and it's never failed me. You can always teather the hut with other techniques when your finished if you like. When your ready to go, just chip the ice off of the rope and hole, and your gone.
 

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We always did like Jamie did with the clam...shovel out an area...open and spread out the clam...remove the hole boards and do a couple turns of the auger to start holes (not many ice shavings) and move the shed back out of the way...finish drilling the holes and clean them out...finish putting the shed up and move over the holes...that way they are exactly centered so you can drill the max holes...
 
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