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Discussion Starter #1
I have been drooling for a gas auger for ever. I almost bought one this year but I saw the add on E-bay for the "ice Kicker". It is the attachment that hooks your auger up to a cordless drill so you can cut holes like a gas auger with out all the weight. It also costs only thirty dollars. So I thought great. I bought it, I even bought a new cordless drill. The one I had wasn't powerfull enough. You need an 18 volt with at least 300lbs of torque. I got the 18volt ryobi the guy uses on the video for the Ice Kicker. So today I went up to dowdy itching to try it out. It barley even started the hole. After reversing it and trying again a couple of times it had only drilled a couple of inches and the drill was starting to smell that "my moter is going to burn up smell". So I scooped out the hole and saw I was actually close to the water so I figured finish this hole with the drill then switch back to the handle. As soon as the drill finished the hole the whole thing, my auger and my new attachment fell gracefully to the bottom of the lake. I can not explain to you in words how I felt at that moment.

Now I will admit I may have done it all wrong. I'm not perfect and maybe the chuck wasn't tight against the addapter. Maybe I went to fast or to slow drilling. Maybe the thing doesn't work! All I'm saying is my two cents says the ice kicker is not worth it. Buy a gas auger you will be happier. Or just a hand auger (wich by the way are on sale at Jax right now for $36.00) I picked one up on my way home. I'm sure it works for somebody out there but not for me. Thanks for listening.
 
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That really bites. My condolences. Another thing to cross off my "Gee, I wonder how that would work" list.
 

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Hatchmaster --- man that sucks! :mad: Thanks for posting it though, you may have just saved a few people some cash!
Bass Pro Shops has a hand auger on sale for $30 (I think?) w/ a telescoping handle.
Sorry again about your gear.
 

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I can imaging how you felt, but I have nothing but good things to say about the kicker.

I have an use the ice kicker. Used it all winter with a 14.4 V Porter Cable drill/driver. The voltage of the drill doesn't matter, but the torque is critical. You are right: 300 in/lbs. torque is minimum. On more than 10 occassions last winter, I drilled 10 holes in 24" of ice at Williams Fork and Chamber. I was always very careful to make sure the chuck was tighted adequateliy, and there is a bar that is wider than a 6" auger (widest they recommend for kicker), so that if your auger drops out of the chuck, it can't easily slip down the hole. Problem is that if the ice isn't too thick, one side of the bar can slip into the hole, then the auger tilts, and the other side goes, and your augers is deep-sixed. There is aversion that has a disk instead of just the bar, that DEFINITELY prevents your auger from going down a 6" holes, but I have the bar version. I assume you had the version with the bar, and had installed the bar on it???

Ryobi drills are not the best. They are undertorqued for their voltage. They do have an appealing price tag, however. I would recommend the kicker to people who already have a good cordless drill, because I suspected the cheaper drills might not cut the mustard, or the ice for that matter. Another factor in how hard it is on your drill to use an auger blade is how sharp your auger is. Some hand augers fail to cut ice right out of the box. Eskimo Augers had an issue with that last season. If you're going to buy a more expensive, higher quality, drill, you might as well spend your money on a gas or true electric ice auger (like the electra). There are a couple of electric motorized augers on the market, but their drawback is the need to bring a heavy battery to run them. They basically have the same torque as a power drill/driver, but have a way to lock the augers shaft in, and two handles like a gas auger. If you use electronics, you can just get a bigger battery for that, and use it for the auger also, and not add too much weight to your sled.

I have seen more than one person swear off the kicker or similar attachments after trying them with one of the inexpensive drill drivers. I think there are a lot of things to consider to use the kicker and similar attachments successfully. My drill has never produced a burning smell. It has gotten stuck in the ice, and I back up and start it spinning and then slowly push it back down, and drills right through.

As for me, I just successfully rigged my porter cable driver on a motorcycle battery, and I suspect with the extra amp hours, I'll be able to drill even more holes with it, this year.

I guess I have found a way to use the kicker and it kicks some arse for me, so I'm happy. I won't push anyone into buying it, but if you fish enough, you are likely to see me out there drilling holes with it this year in the lakes near Fort Collins and beyond.

Hatch, if you are still planning on going to Chambers tomorrow: a) bring snowshoes, and b) I'll show you my drill/driver setup. Now, I hope it doesn't make a liar out of me and burn out my drill this time or something crazy like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cutthroat I had the bar installed and I think it added just enough weight that when It fell, it fell fast enough to just miss my grab. Seriously though I knew it worked for some. I think I read a report about it by you before I bought it. I'll check out your set up up at chambers on sunday and you can check out my fresh out of the box 6" mora auger! ha ha
 

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The fresh moras usually cut nice. As a less expensive alternative to the kicker, I would suggest you get a double-offset handle. It uses both arms to crank, rather than holding with one and cranking with other, and it really makes easier work when drilling manually.

Another tip or two that I thought of when using a power drill to auger are these: Keep your batteries warm. Most batteries don't perform well when cold, and you may not get the juice you need. Press firmly, but just hard enough that the auger really digs in. Retighten your chuck right before you drill. If you put the attachment on the drill at home, the metal may schrink a little in the cold and will be looser than you think.

Anyway, if you are interested in trying an attachment again, Discount Tackle in Fort Collins sells something similar to the kicker, but made from aluminum. There may be an advantage, because aluminum is softer metal, and the chuck digs into it when tightened, and may hold a little better in the chuck.

Anyway, I'm obviously a gearhead and a detail junky. I have CAD drawings of all kind of ice fishing gear and shelters I intend to try and build when I have time - rod holders, hook setters, automatic jigging devices, bite detectors, specialized tip-ups. I'm sort of obsessed with sportfishing technology, you might say.
 

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Definitely - my system might work because I have had lots of experience and have learned all my lessons. I actually did have mine fall out of he chuck once at Parvin when I forgot to tighten it before I drilled the hole. I also tighten my keyless chuck by holding on tight and torquing it down under the power of the drill until it hurts my hand. It's TIGHT. When mine fell out of the chuck, the bar on the kicker worked perfectly, but the ice was 12" deep, so the auger slipped perfectly centered into the hole. Like I said, with thinner ice, the bar helps, but if the auger falls off center, it will just tip and drown.
 
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that sucks man!
i recall a discussion about something like you decribe your setup to drill ice holes using a cordless drill and partof an auger a few weeks back somewhere on the board.  i must say i was a skeptic when i read and replied, mainly about the ability to drill a 6, 7 or 8" hole with a cordless drill.  i never ever would have imagined losing it.  my guess is that the forward and reversing and the way hole cutting in ice wrenches and jams the auger made the chuck untighten. 
hand augers are not bad if you don't drill tons of holes and they are only $40 for a mora or lazer 8".  good luck on what you do to replace.
check out this auger...last year it won a lot of awards in competitive comparisons.
http://www.strikemaster.com/electra_lazer.html
 

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Oh, one more thing... Make sure you don't pull the auger back up through the hole by the drill! You should grabe the shaft of the auger, or the crossbar on the auger attachment. I recall that pulling on the drill is the best way to cause the auger to drop out of the chuck.
 

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i just leave my 3hp jiffy laying out on the ice all day, then when i want to move i go out and one pull crank her up and just put the pedal to the medal, no backing up or stopping, she will drill as many 10 inch holes in a day as i have need for and this thing will never fall through a hole, fits in my shelter nice too for dragging around. probably doesnt cost all that much more by the time you guys buy the super drill and all the blades and attachments,extra batteries. do you really want to walk around with drill batteries in your coat to keep them warm. the drill system may be lighter but do we really need to reinvent the wheel here.
 

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The most reliable auger I own, which starts everytime I use it, is my hand auger with the double-offset handle. Keep it sharp, and that setup will put you through 2-3 feet of ice in about a minute, and not wear you out. I put a lot of holes in the ice in a day in 2 ft. of ice with it.

It would be nice to have a gas auger, in many ways, but unless I have a better way to take it into the place I snowshoe into during winter, it's not worth extra effort or the money to buy one. If I had a gas auger and a snowmobile.... now that would really do the trick!
 

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i bought one of those last year it works fine on ice less than 12" i tried using it at wholford during the tournament and usedtwo batteries to almost drill one hole.
 

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Unfortunately, those small batteries don't retain the same kind of chargeability forever. I've wired my drill up to a larger 12 V battery, and it turns like a motherscratcher.
 

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thats a great idea. how did you do it?
 

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The drill/drivers are DC. If you're is 12 or 14.4 V, it will run like a charm on a 12 V sealed lead-acid or deep-cycle battery. You just need to make sure you use heavy gauge wiring (I used 10 gauge), or you will melt the insulation off the wires when you put the drill under heavy load. It's interesting to note that 12 V rechargable batteries actually run at 13.8-14.4 V when fully charged, if you're using them ad deep-cycle batteries, and they will run at this for some time before they start to peter off to lower voltages. That's basically the same thing that happens with the batteries that come with the drills. Your drill instructions probably say that doing something like this will fry your drill, and this may be true, so you do this at your own risk, of course. Before you do it, you might want to wait and see if I come back to the forum crying about burning my drill up.
 

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Hatchmaster,

Sorry to hear about the auger.

I had a similar problem. My son dropped part of a pole to my shelter thru the ice at Wolford. There weren't may other holes in that area so I went back a couple of days later with a magnet that I bought at Harbor Freight, drilled another hole and was able to get my pole back.

Harbor Freight sells 250 pound capacity magnets for about 12 or 14 bucks.

I don't know if you can figure out exactly where you lost your auger or not, but it might work.
 

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yeah if you marked the spot with a GPS you could even go back in the spring after the thaw and dredge it up or find a buddy to dive for it it will survive the winter down there just fine

good luck
 
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