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Discussion Starter #1
I ran out to Boyd to test out a battery cable I made to connect my drill/driver to a larger 12V battery for more juice, so I can drill more holes with my auger attachment.  The ice is not terribly thick there, so it wasn't that big a deal, but it worked fine.  My drill is a 14.4 V, though.  I have a feeling, it would work better with one of the newer high-torque 12 V models.  I have access to one I'm going to try to bring to Elevenmile to try with the auger.
 

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I've been using both a drill-attachment and the hand-crank for the last two years. I am happy to use the hand crank, but since I already had a drill/driver, why not experiment and turn it into a po-man's power auger? It kicked butt for me last season.
 

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drill 6" holes, but some drill 8". With some of the 550 in lbs. + torque drills out, today, you have nearly as much torque as some of the gas augers. I would guess you need to add an extra handle to avoid injuring your wrist if you auger bites in, though.

Hatchmaster has a story about losing his auger out of his chuck with a drill attachment like mine. I saw another attachment where the bar (which spins freely on the attachment and is supposed to prevent the auger bit from being able to fall through the hole), was strapped to the drill as extra insurance against the auger dropping out of the chuck. Looks like a good idea.
 

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by the time you drag an auger, drill, cables, and battery it would be more of a pain that it would be worth

ill stick with my moras or step up to a 10" power auger

by the time i get ready for the power auger i hope they have fuel cell powered ones
 

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I use a Sears 19v 400lbs of torque with an 6 in Lazer. At 6 inches of ice, I average about 25-30 holes per battery. Tried it at Wolford(last year) with about 40 inches of ice and well do the math, average goes down to 3-4 holes per battery. I got a new Milwaukee 18volt with 500 lbs of torque that I will try and see if there is a difference. In the end, if you going on thick ice and/or you like bigger holes, gas is the way to go.

Matt
 

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At Elevenmile, yesterday, I ran my 14.4 V drill with a 12 V battery (motorcycle battery), and drilled many holes quite easily through about 15" of ice, with no problem. Hot home and hooked my battery up tot he charger - barely any charge used! I evenhooked up an 8" auger and drilled a hole with it, and that worked great, too.

I'll probably get a 12 or 14 V drill/driver with more torque (12 and 14.4 V drills are pushinug 400 in lbs, now) next year, along with an 8" auger, and use a motorcycle battery to drive it.

I'm quite happy with the results. Not only that, but it cuts faster than a lot of gas augers!
 

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roadkill said:
by the time you drag an auger, drill, cables, and battery it would be more of a pain that it would be worth

ill stick with my moras or step up to a 10" power auger

by the time i get ready for the power auger i hope they have fuel cell powered ones
The battery is in a bucket and is lightweight, easy to carry. The cords are taped right to the drill will not troubles. The not a problem at all to grab the bucket, set it down where I want to drill, then cut two or three holes, then pick up the bucket and move to the next spot, do the same. Easy, lightweight, etc... If I needed power auger and had to drag a sled in on foot, this would be my first choice, unless they start making gas augers that weight less than 15 lbs. total.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm using an adapted called an ice-kicker. It has a free-spinning cross bar that helps prevent your auger from falling through the ice, if it falls out of your chuck. On thin ice, your auger can still fall through, however, so you can put a couple holes in the ends of the cross bar and attach a bungee around your drill, so the auger can't drop.

If you're using an 8" auger, make sure your blades are sharp, and make sure your drill can generate over 300 in lbs. of torque, or you'll get nowhere. I let the weight of the drill do the work, and don't press down. If you press down, you stop the drill, and you get nowhere.

Also, take a 12 - 19 Ah motorcycle battery, and make a cable with 12 gauge wire that you can attach to the + and - connectors on your drill and the battery. Carry the battery in s a small bucket, and you're drilling holes all over the place. It may sound like a lot to go through, but most of the work is in the setup, and it costs a lot less than a commercial power auger.

Good Luck - I might be able to help you troubleshoot, if you have problems, but your main problem is likely to be dull blades or underpowered drill.
 

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My old strikemaster 8" gas auger weighs 22 lbs. You are gettin close to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Still 7 lbs. heavier and considerably more expensive.
 

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Thanks for the setup info! Got most of that stuff handy already - sans the adaptor.

Just checked into the Ice Kicker - spotted Kicker II and his geared setup might be more viable for an 8" auger, cost is starting to be factor though at that point IMO. Just gotta figure out what the specs on my cheap 12V cordless Harbor Frieght drill are first (they're not selling same model anymore). My guess is I won't have near enough torque.

I can always go back to the old fashioned operation :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Discount Fishing Tackle in Fort Collins sells their own version of the adapter, milled from aluminum by a local guy. Mine is steel. There are now many versions available. Do a google search for cordless drill ice auger, and you'll find some links. There are some that are really nice. I got one, because I already had the drill, too. Saved me loads of cash on a gas auger. last year when I needed to drill more holes after hiking in long distances.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OH, she's jealous, all right. I caught her threatening my drill driver with heavy current, one day.
 
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