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There has been some talk about ugly stiks and such lately and many people prefer to stay away from them (myself included).

On the other end you have rods costing hundreds of dollars. Somewhere in the middle you have nice rods that are $40-$100 or so.

I will admit all of my rods fall into this latter category except one...a Thorne Brothers Custom Spinning rod that was given to me as a gift (it was probably $3-400)

I love this rod and it is my main bass rod, but honestly, I can't tell a whole lot of difference between it and some of my mid-grade rods.

I have a friend who says he refuses to spend more than $40 on a rod because he can't tell the difference.

What are your opinions about this subject? Can you tell the difference or is a lot of it in people's heads. I think there is a definite difference between cheap rods and the good mid priced rods but after a point, it's all in your head.

Expensive reels I understand (to a point) rods...not so much.
 
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I build my own - I have over 75 rods in inventory and honestly, most of the rod blanks didn't cost me over $10 or $15 dollars.

I have some really stiff action and some really soft action - brand doesn't matter. A couple of years ago, Milty bought a huge lot of rod blanks - most were old Fenwick. I bought up a bunch of them and they are terrific. I also have a 3wt fly rod where the blanks were 3 for $15 (I bought a 3wt, a 5wt and a 7wt) and it is one of my favorite fly rods. I've got some ice fishing rods that you can touch tip to butt and they won't break. I don't know what brand they are.

Nice thing about being able to build is you have a lot of flexibility and options...
guide size, weight, placement, reel seat selection, etc.

I have a lot of Sage blems and they are every bit as good as the production rods (if not better). My thoughts are, once you find a blank that you like, the components are what should make it a good or bad quality rod (and will also affect the action based on weight of the guides, amount of the rod wrapped, where the guides are placed with relation to the spline, how the guides are spaced, etc.) An Orvis rod blank doesn't cost Orvis $200 to make. It costs them a lot less - but you add a cocobolo real seat and the real seat may cost $200 (not to mention the additional $100 for the Orvis name). The fish don't know the difference and if I'm going to place a reel seat on gravel or grass to thread line through the guides, It's not going to be cocobolo.

I say ignore the brand and fish with what feels good!
 

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I have rods from $20 to $65 and refuse to believe that there is a major diff from a $30.00 rod to a $200.00. Ill stick to my lower end rods.

Reels on the other hand you can tell a bgd diff. I have a $130.00 reel that I would'nt trade for anything.


[me=Jay_In_Parker] [/me]
 

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this is a hi-jack

Mr. Ed do you rebuild old rods because i have found a few
and would love to use them but they are missing an eye and need some
love and work done to them
 

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Jay_In_Parker said:
I have rods from $20 to $65 and refuse to believe that there is a major diff from a $30.00 rod to a $200.00. Ill stick to my lower end rods.

Reels on the other hand you can tell a bgd diff. I have a $130.00 reel that I would'nt trade for anything.


[me=Jay_In_Parker] [/me]
I would agree that the price has nothing to do with it as long as the rod has the action your looking for. Reel could make the difference.
 

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Don't feel bad about not being able to tell the difference between a "high end" and a mid grade rod. It's long been rumored that 70-75% of high end fly rod company revenue goes into marketting. So when you buy that 600.00 Sage, Winston etc you are really buying a $175.00 rod and every other dollar is paying for their next round of ads.

I would suggest going with the higher priced models in private label rods at a Bass Pro, Cabelas, Gander etc. These can be great deals for the money. Plus, if they were to break, they usually come with great no hassle exchange policies.
 

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Ever since I had my first custom surf rod built, I won't buy another factory rod. To me, there is no comparison between custom and factory.
 

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Ugly sticks are poor rods. They're heavy, not sensitive at all, kind of like fishing with a wed noodle IMO.

I stay in the $60-120 range on rods. When you go up in price you get a rod with more sensitivity, less weight and better guides, better grade cork handles ,etc. Not trying to convince anybody that you need to spend more than $25 on a rod-if you're happy with it, fine. But a more expensive rod is usually upgraded in components and craftmanship.
 

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Most of my rods are 50-100 dollars. However, I did get quite a steal on a rod for the river for 20 dollars and it is the best rod I've ever used for trout fishing for 2-5 pound trout. I'll see it's brand here in a bit. I got it from BPS though I think.
BTW, almost all of my reels are either abu garcia or quantum...they work well and are usually only 40 to 50 dollars. I hate ugly sticks for everything besides catfish, and even then, I don't like em.
 

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Yeah i see what you guys mean about ugly stiks. I've notice my ugly stik is beginning to get a little flimsy but i have no problem with sensibility and i dont mind the weight. Its a good arm exercise lol and i know many others that love how there ugly stiks handle. But for you guys looking for a decent rod under $50 the Rapala Tournament Class HM-45 Graphite rod works great!
 

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i have high dollar factory rods and high dollar customs and they don't see to much action. most of my equipment nowadays is in the $40- $120 range, usually clearance items from the prior year models, and they're my workhorse range section. and i doubt some/most people coundnl't fell the difference between IM8 (which i use) and IM6!
 

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I can tell the difference (sensitivity) between my G Loomis IMX and my other store brand rods. Is the difference in perceived sensitivity worth the extra cheddar? That's subjective.
 

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My best trolling rod is a 7ft one piece fenwick that cost $65. The 5ft spinning rod I use is an Ugly Stick and I love it. In my opinion, you get what you pay for when it comes to reels but not so with rods. My 9ft 9wt flyrod I used for pike and bass back home is a $70 rod/reel combo that I ordered from Cabela's. I have to say that I have never thrown something that is in the $100+ range and still have had lots of success.......I'll spend the leftover money on gas.
 

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RAVEN_67 said:
i have high dollar factory rods and high dollar customs and they don't see to much action. most of my equipment nowadays is in the $40- $120 range, usually clearance items from the prior year models, and they're my workhorse range section. and i doubt some/most people coundnl't fell the difference between IM8 (which i use) and IM6!
I use an IM8 for cranks and the like while I use the IM6 for plastics. It allows for a stronger hookset IMO. more backbone.
 
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I like rods in the $100 dollar range for techniques which require sensitivity. trolling rods and downrigging rods don't require the sensitivity that say a jigging rod should have. I think the Orvis/St. Croix/Sage top end stuff is really just throwing away money. I laugh at some of these "elite" fishermen who believe their "St. Croix Ultra XXXX Master Elite Limited Edition Special Anniversary Release" fishing rod will catch them more fish and they are better fishermen because of it. My 11 year old daughter could probably outfish them with her Zebco 33.

I think having different technique/species specific rods is more important than one or two really expensive rods. Using a medium heavy casting rod for 1/8 oz jigs just doesn't cut it. Just my opinion.
 
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